Journey of Han Dynasty brocade from sand to cultural symbol

Thirty years have passed, yet Yue Feng, a researcher at the National Museum of China, still vividly remembers the awe he felt the moment the coffin lid was lifted and a national treasure was revealed for the first time. In that instant, the exquisite craftsmanship of Han Dynasty (206BC - AD220) brocade seemed to transcend time itself.

On October 13, 1995, a joint China-Japan archaeological team unearthed what would become one of the most celebrated discoveries of the 21st- century Chinese archaeology at the Niya ruins: A piece of brocade with eight Chinese characters that literally read "Five stars rise in the East, benefitting China." Now housed at the Xinjiang Museum, this national first-grade relic is among the first Chinese artifacts officially prohibited from leaving the country for exhibition.

On October 17, 2025, the main participants of that historic excavation, including Yue - set out once again from Minfeng county in Northwest China's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, at the northern foot of the Kunlun Mountains, heading north into the heart of the Taklimakan Desert. Thirty years on, they returned to the land that had profoundly touched their lives and shaped their careers.

"Over the past 30 years, multidisciplinary research has given us a more comprehensive understanding of the significance of this brocade armguard, especially in providing concrete evidence that as early as the Western Han Dynasty (206BC - AD25), the central government had already established administrative jurisdiction over the Western Regions," Yue recalled.

A moment of astonishment

Yue Feng, who served as the Chinese leader of the excavation team, still remembers the precise moment the coffin was opened. As the lid was slowly lifted, a flash of vibrant color appeared from a piece of textile lying beside the right arm of the deceased in Tomb 8. Bit by bit, the sand was brushed away to reveal dazzling blue, white, red, yellow, and green patterns. As the brocade's intricate designs emerged, so did the characters guo (nation), dongfang (east), and wuxing (five stars). At last, the full inscription was visible: "wuxing chu dongfang li zhongguo" ("Five Stars Rise in the East, Benefiting China"). Everyone present was stunned.

Measuring 18.5 centimeters long and 12.5 centimeters wide, the brocade armguard boasts 220 warp threads per square centimeters, and features the inscription along with auspicious motifs such as phoenixes, white tigers, and clouds - testament to the peak of Han Dynasty weaving artistry. Dyed with minerals and plants, the armguard's colors have remained vivid for nearly 2,000 years, perfectly preserved by the Taklimakan Desert's extreme aridity - a moment seemingly frozen in time.

According to Yue, the "five stars" reflect ancient Chinese cosmological understanding and symbolize good fortune and hope. "The east" refers to the eastern sky, while China (Zhongguo) denotes the Central Plains region. The inscription not only reveals the Han Dynasty's grasp of astronomy, but also embodies the traditional belief in the unity of heaven and humanity.

The discovery of this national treasure was, in fact, an accident. In October 1995, after the archaeological team's vehicle broke down in the desert, members set out on foot to explore the area. To protect these precious finds from the ravages of wind and sand, Yue and his colleagues immediately organized an urgent rescue excavation.

The Niya ruins stand at a key juncture on the southern route of the ancient Silk Road, a crossroad of Eastern and Western civilizations. Today, the armguard's value has surpassed that of a mere historical relic, becoming a powerful symbol of cultural identity and confidence. Its artistic ingenuity and the spirit of traditional craftsmanship serve as sources of inspiration for both contemporary cultural innovation and the preservation of intangible cultural heritage, Yue said.

Unceasing vitality

As Yue observes, three decades later, the brocade armguard has evolved into an enduring symbol, frequently featured in cultural events and embraced as a vessel of collective memory and pride. Inspired by the armguard, a variety of cultural products - from refrigerator magnets to carpets and stage performances have become popular among the public. These creative reinterpretations allow the story and spirit of the artifact to reach ever-wider audiences.

As a unique and fragile national treasure, the armguard requires special protection. To balance public display with preservation and research, high-standard replicas are essential. This not only allows more people to appreciate the artifact up close but also supports in-depth study of its weaving techniques.

Qian Xiaoping, an 85-year-old inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Song brocade, was the first expert to attempt a replica of this silk masterpiece. She told the Global Times that she was immediately captivated by its vibrant colors and could hardly imagine how ancient artisans achieved such lasting brilliance with natural dyes. "Its colors and exquisite craftsmanship are beyond imagination, and I immediately realized the replication work would be extremely challenging," Qian said.

She recalled that her only access to the piece was through a glass display case. The greatest challenge was reconstructing the fabric's intricate structure. "There were no reference documents or examples. We had to examine it millimeter by millimeter, using a magnifying glass."

Beyond physical replication, digital documentation for textiles from the Niya site - including the armguard has also been ongoing. With support from the National Cultural Heritage Administration, the Xinjiang Institute of Cultural Relics and Archaeology, in collaboration with Zhejiang University, completed digital information collection for 75 textile artifacts from 2016 to 2019.

Shang Yuping, an associate researcher at the Xinjiang Institute, noted that digital archiving not only aids archaeological analysis, but also facilitates future exhibition and creative use. The more detailed the information researchers collect, the more beneficial it is for science-based exhibitions and cultural and creative product development, according to the Beijing Daily.