Border city in NE China's Jilin cultivates thriving wine industry

Photo shows the valley of Yalu River in Ji'an city, a county-level city administered by Tonghua city, northeast China's Jilin Province. (People's Daily/Zhang Bolan)

More than two-thirds of Tonghua city, northeast China's Jilin Province is covered by mountains rich in natural treasures. The Changbai Mountains are home to over 2,000 plant species. Among their most prized gifts is the wild mountain grape, which grows in abundance between Liuhe county and Ji'an city, a county-level city administered by Tonghua.

The rare grape variety is unique to China. Locals have been fermenting these grapes into wine for generations. Industrial production of mountain grape wine began in the 1930s, making China one of only three countries in the world capable of producing it at the time.

After the founding of New China, Tonghua grape wine rose to prominence as one of the country's major wine exports. Through selective breeding and hybrid cultivation, the mountain grape now produces a wide range of wine styles and flavors. Thanks to this, the border city has earned international recognition as the "Bordeaux of the East."

Foreign visitors pick frozen grapes at a wine estate in Ji'an city, a county-level city administered by Tonghua city, northeast China's Jilin Province. (Photo courtesy of Ji'an Yajianggu Winery Co., Ltd.)

The underground wine cellar at Tonghua Winery is the largest cluster-style underground oak barrel cellar in the world. It houses 772 giant barrels, each with a capacity of 3 to 8 tonnes, together being able to store up to around 6,000 tonnes of wine.

Lying between 40- and 43-degrees north latitude, Tonghua boasts an ideal climate and geography for grape growing. After the founding of New China, Tonghua Wine became China's only wine brand named after a city, and it was often served at National Day banquets and in receptions for foreign dignitaries.

As one of China's earliest underground wine cellars, the underground wine cellar at Tonghua Winery was listed in 2013 by the State Council as a national key cultural relic protection unit. It attracts visitors from across China and abroad to get a unique experience of cultural exchange through wine.

Dominic Rivard, a Canadian winemaker tastes grape wine. (Photo courtesy of the interviewee)

In 1997, Tonghua Winery established a research team to explore ice wine production, sending team members to Canada, the world's leading ice wine producer. In 2003, Dominic Rivard, a Canadian winemaker, was invited to Tonghua to help introduce the Canadian grape variety Vidal, adapting it to the local terroir and expanding it into large-scale cultivation.

"Vidal is a cold-resistant grape that grows well in Canada's climate. In Tonghua, we started with small trial plots across different vineyards, monitoring growth, sugar and acid levels, and flavor," explained Rivard.

"Eventually, Vidal grew from just a few hectares of test fields to widespread commercial planting. It was a true collaboration—combining Canadian expertise with the persistence of a Chinese winery," he added.

"After decades of breeding, Tonghua has developed its own distinctive mountain grape varieties," said Guo Fenghua, chief winemaker at Tonghua Grape Wine Co., Ltd.

Russian wine experts visit a wine estate in Ji'an city, a county-level city administered by Tonghua city, northeast China's Jilin Province. (Photo/Niu Yanzhang)

In recent years, Tonghua's wine industry has stepped up its efforts to go global, actively participating in major international wine competitions. Wines produced in the small city of Ji'an alone have won nearly 100 awards in both domestic and international contests.

Wine is more than just a drink—it's a bridge connecting people and cultures. Thanks to this connection, Ji'an has seen its international exchanges flourish. Each winter, the city's frozen grapes captivate visitors.

People perform long-drum dance of the Korean ethnic group at the Ice Wine Festival in Ji'an city, a county-level city administered by Tonghua city, northeast China's Jilin Province. (Photo/Bao Yang)

In recent years, Ji'an has been hosting the Ice Wine Festival, attracting wine experts, enthusiasts, and tourists from countries such as Russia and France to enjoy the breathtaking scenery and savor the distinctive local wine.

German wine professional Joerg Philipp and his wife visited Jilin for the first time, with Ji'an as their destination.

"The taste of the grapes is very fresh, with just the right balance of acidity and sweetness," said Philipp, a judge at multiple international wine competitions. Having traveled to many wine regions, the couple was particularly impressed by Tonghua wine.

Photo shows an aerial view of Ji'an city, a county-level city administered by Tonghua city, northeast China's Jilin Province. (Photo/Zhang Hongming)